Craftsman Zero Turn Mower tractor lawn

A zero-turn riding lawn mower is operationally similar to a standard riding lawn mower. The term zero-turn refers to the turning radius being essentially zero inches. Different brands and models achieve this in different ways. Most current models have four wheels, two swiveling front tires and two larger drive tires in the back. Instead of controlling the swiveling tires to steer the machine, the rotational speed of the drive tires differ from the other to move one side faster than the other.

John Regier is credited with developing the first zero-turn lawn mower in 1963; he called his first mower The Hustler, because the zero-turn technology greatly reduced traditional mowing time. Due to the lack of initial interest in zero-turn lawn mowers, Regier eventually sold his patent and design to the Hesston Corporation, located in Hesston, Kansas, which would eventually become Excel Industries. Excel Industries is the parent company of Hustler Turf, which manufacturers Hustler zero-turn mowers.

Houston Texas Commercial Landscaper's Lawn tractors

In 1969, Grasshopper Mowers introduced the first commercially viable zero-turn mower, and in 1974, Dixon coined the term “zero-turn radius” with their entrance into the mower market.

Currently, there are more than three dozen zero-turn mower manufacturers offering a range of mid-mounted and out-front mowing deck options and accessories.

For most zero-turn mowers today, steering is simply changing the speeds of the drive tires. The tire speed is controlled by two levers that protrude on either side of the driver and typically extend over the lap. When both levers are pushed forward simultaneously with the same force, the mower moves forward; when both levers are pulled back simultaneously with the same force, the mower moves backward. Push one lever more than the other and the mower makes a gentle turn. Push one lever forward and pull the other back and the mower pivots from the drive wheels, creating a zero-radius turn.

Zero-turn mowers can use steering wheels but must be designed much differenly. Husqvarna is one of the few zero-turns to use a steering wheel by connecting the back wheels to an axle. The axle is mounted in its midpoint to the body of the mower.

Zero-turn mowers are designed to cut so closely around obstacles that there’s virtually no need to trim. These mowers pivot through 180 degrees without leaving any uncut grass. Maximum lever movement means maximum fluid flow, which translates into a rapidly turning wheel. If one drive wheel turns more rapidly than the other, the machine moves along a curved path. If both wheels turn at the same speed, the machine follows a straight path. If one wheel stops and the other turns, or if the wheels turn in opposite directions, the mower pivots.

More info can be found HERE

More info can be found HERE

Spa Jet Replacement

See Spa Equipment Troubleshooting for details on repairing components. CAUTION: Electrical repairs can be dangerous, especially around water. Repairs must be made by a qualified electrician or spa technician. Regardless of who performs the work, make certain that all electrical power to the hot tub or spa is disconnected prior to making any inspections or repairs.

Shut the power off at the service panel, and as a secondary precaution, disconnect the power to the spa as well. Do not attempt to perform electrical repairs unless you are qualified.

Anatomy of Hot Tub Pumps Hot tub pump parts Pumps are basically comprised of two main components: the wet end containing an impeller (which moves the water) and the electric motor (the dry end) which turns the impeller.

Symptoms of Spa Pump Failure

There are several signs of hot tub pump failure:

* Malfunctions that prevent the motor from turning, including frozen shaft or bearings, may result in a humming noise. * A jammed impeller (inside the wet end) can do the same, as can a defective starting capacitor. * Badly worn bearings may cause a whining noise. * Leaks around the pump often indicate a failure of the pump seals. You will likely observe a puddle of water below the pump when these seals go bad.

You could replace these individual components (if you can find the proper parts). But if your pump is more than a couple years old, it is generally better to replace the entire pump– motor and wet end. This is a cleaner and much easier repair, which results in a greater reliability factor in the long run. Our quality Replacement Spa Pumps are not expensive. In fact, we charge less for complete brand-new pumps (motor and wet end) than others charge for just the motor alone! Motors Of course, if you only need a motor, we have the world’s lowest prices on premium quality Replacement Spa Motors in the country. (The same motors are also used for many above-ground pool pumps). Hot Tub Motor

Removing the Old Pump DISCONNECT POWER & READ SAFETY WARNING

Spa Equipment Access

The best way to assure obtaining the correct replacement pump, is to remove the old unit prior to ordering the new one. This will allow you to make inspections and measurements to assure a correct match. Equipment bay After disconnecting the electrical power, remove the spa’s access panel.

Identified here in the hot tub’s equipment bay:

1. Hot tub pump 2. Equipment control system

Some spas will have two gate or slice valves installed at either side of the pump (1). If so, close these valves prior to removing the pump. If no valves are present, drain the spa.

Disconnecting the Old Spa Pump Spa pump removal

* Disconnect the bare copper bonding wire from the pump’s ground terminal. * Unscrew the pump’s two unions. Some residual water will drain out. * Remove the mounting screws from the pump base bracket.

Although the pump’s power cable is still attached to the control system, the pump can now be lifted out of the equipment bay.

Cable Detachment

The old power cable* will be used for the replacement pump, if in serviceable condition. Loosen the cable clamp screws. The pump end will also have an a removable access cover with terminal connections inside. pump cable

Remove the cable, making a note of wire color codes and connections. Make sure the wire ends are clean for a good connection to your new pump. If necessary, snip off an inch or two, and restrip the wires. Most spa pumps are two speed units, with the low speed used for filtration and heating cycles. Two speed 240V pumps have 4 wires: red, black, white, and green. Red is normally low speed, and black high speed. The white wire is common and the green is ground.

*Note: If you are also purchasing a new EasyPak spa control system from us, there is no need to save the old pump cable, as a new one is provided with the new spa pack.

Determine Pump Voltage & Horsepower

While all 110-120V spas use 120V pumps, not all spas wired for 220-240V use 240V pumps. Some use 120V pumps. So check your owner’s manual, and look at the label on the old pump to determine the voltage. The label should also indicate the horsepower and amperage. See pump specifications for a cross reference. Some people desire to increase the spa jet action by upgrading to a larger pump. This is generally not a problem if the spa’s control system and the electrical service can accommodate the added amperage. As a rule of thumb, do not increase the pump horsepower more than one level of magnitude. For example, upgrading a 1 HP pump to 1.5 HP, or a 3 HP pump to 4 HP is reasonable. Avoid jumping from 2 HP to 5 HP as such a radical increase may cause problems like cavitation, uncomfortable jet pressure, or excessive current draw.

Determine Form Factor: Side or Center Discharge

The two spa pump form factors refer to the outflow or discharge fitting on the Wet End, as shown here. Your old pump will be either Center Discharge or Side Discharge.

Pump discharge forms Center Discharge Side Discharge

Wet ends can be rotated Orientation of Wet End

Pump wet ends can be oriented in 90º increments. Loosen the pump’s four through bolts from the back of the motor and pull them back enough to disengage. Then rotate the wet end to the desired position, realign and re-tighten the bolts.

In most cases you need to match the existing form factor to get the components to match up. If you can use either form, select Side Discharge which is more efficient than a Center Discharge pump of the same horsepower. See Pump Selection Chart Circulation pumps Continuous Circulating Pumps In addition to the main pump, some spas also utilize a small continuous circulation pump. Most spa circ pumps have 3/4″ barbed fittings for flex hose, which makes replacement very easy. See Circulating Pumps

Motor Frame Size

The physical size of the spa pump motor is referred to as frame. Spa main pumps will have a size of either 48 frame, which are approx. 5.5″ diameter, or 56 frame, which are approx. 6.5″ diameter. Check the old motor’s ID plate for frame size. 48 Frame Motor

If in doubt, you can easily determine a motor’s frame size by measuring the spacing between the through-bolts.

Bolt spacing on a 48 frame motor will be less than 4 inches. A 56 frame motor’s bolts will be spaced more than 4 inches apart.

Note: Because of their lower cost and compact size, most spa pumps in service are 48 frame. Larger 56 frame motors are a little more expensive and somewhat stronger. They tend to operate a bit cooler than 48 frame units, which can mean longer service life.

56 Frame Motor

Determine Pump Plumbing Size

Plumbing size is very important, but a lot of people get it wrong and end up ordering the wrong pump. Most spa pumps are either 1.5″ or 2″ plumbing.

Pump Plumbing With the pump unions removed, measurement is simple. Here’s the easy way to get it right for most* brands of hot tub pumps: 1.5″ Pump Most 1.5″ pumps will have an thread measurement outside diameter (OD) of about 2-3/8″ across for the intake and discharge.

2″ Pump Most 2.0″ pumps will have an thread measurement outside diameter (OD) of about 3″ across for the intake and discharge.

2.5″ Intake Some pumps have a 2.5″ intake and 2.0″ discharge. The intake thread measurement outside diameter (OD) is about 3-5/8″ across.

*Note: Some brands of pumps (such as Hayward, Jacuzzi, and Sta-Rite) use non-standard fittings with different dimensions. Please contact our Parts Technical Help for assistance with these if in doubt.

Installing the New Pump

The installation of your replacement pump is essentially the reverse of the removal process described above. Once again, verify that the power is disconnected from the spa before proceeding.

Connecting Pump Power Cable

Most spa pumps are two speed units, with the low speed used for filtration and heating cycles. As explained below, two speed pumps can easily be configured for single speed use. Wiring new pump

* Remove a wiring plug from the new pump motor end and install a cable connector clamp. * Remove the wiring access cover from the end of the new pump motor. * Attach the pump power cable wires and ground per pump’s wiring diagram. * Replace access cover. * Tighten cable clamp.

Make sure the wire ends are clean for a good connection to your new pump. Our replacement pumps have a label diagram showing the wiring scheme.

Pump Speed Configuration Pump Speed

A two-speed pump requires 3 line connections, plus a ground wire. The typical color coding is as follows:

* White: common * Black: high speed * Red: low speed (left blank for 1-speed use) * Green (or bare): ground

Refer to the wiring diagram on your pump, as some equipment systems use different color coding. Wire orientation may vary on different pump brands.

One Speed Pump Configuration: A two speed spa pump can serve single-speed duty (common in dual pump hot tubs) by using only the common and high speed terminal connections, while leaving the low speed terminal blank.

Note: After pump replacement, If your spa filtration or heating cycle comes on with high speed instead of low speed, this normally indicates that the high and low speed wires simply need to be switched.

Setting Up the New Pump

* Reattach the bare copper bonding wire to the pump grounding terminal. * Set the pump in place, carefully aligning it to the union connections. * Start the base mount screws, but do not tighten them yet. * Hand tighten the unions. Do not use a wrench. * Tighten the pump base screws.

You may be able to reuse your old unions, or you can order new ones to match your plumbing size. We also have a special reducer union (#BX9924) which will convert a 2″ pump to match 1.5″ spa plumbing.

Most spa pumps are designed for below water level (flooded suction) installation, to make certain that they fill with water. Their unions are compression fittings which should be correctly aligned with the male wet-end threads to allow the integral O-ring to seat properly.

Flooding the Pump

After installation and wiring hookup, but prior to powering-on the spa, make certain to open the valves (if so equipped) to flood the pump and prevent an air lock. If you have drained the spa, refill it with fresh water.

IMPORTANT: Now purge the pump of any remaining air pockets by loosening the pump unions until all air has escaped (you’ll hear it)– then hand retighten. Running a pump dry will cause damage and void the warranty.

Testing and Inspection

* Inspect the installation to verify that everything is properly connected. * Mop up any spilled water. * Reconnect power source. * Operate spa for a few minutes and observe for leaks or air locks. * Replace equipment bay access door.

About Voltage Numbers In the U.S., standard household voltage (the voltage at regular wall outlets) varies from about 110 to 120 volts. TVs, computers, lights, etc. are designed to run at this range. Major appliances such as water heaters and clothes dryers, are usually wired at double that amount, which will typically be in the range of 220 to 240 volts. Spa motors will be designed for one of these two ranges, but keep in mind that a voltage specification of 115 volts actually means that it is designed to function correctly in the range of 110 to 120 volts; a device which specifies 230 volts actually means it will function correctly in the range of 220 to 240 volts.

Watts = Amps x Volts. Amperage determines the size of wiring and circuit breaker/GFCI required, and is also a factor in what your equipment controls will accommodate. Wattage is the total amount of power consumed. Note that a 120 volt pump drawing 16 amps uses virtually the same amount of power (wattage) as a 240 volt pump drawing 8 amps.

Replacement Pump Specifications

Our replacement pumps are designed to equal or surpass OEM specifications. We use only premium-quality Waterway® pump wet ends and brand new (not remanufactured) motors– the best money can buy. These 2-speed pumps are easily configured for 1-speed use if needed.

Pump Speeds: Low 1725 RPM High 3450 RPM Pump HP Volts Hi/Lo Amps In/Out Discharge Frame BX4100-C1 .75 120 8.8/2.6 1.5″ Center 48 BX4101-C1 1.0 120 11/2.9 1.5″ Center 48 BX4101-S2 1.0 120 11/2.9 2.0″ Side 48 BX4102-C1 1.5 120 16.4/4.4 1.5″ Center 48 BX4102-S1 1.5 120 16.4/4.4 1.5 ” Side 48 BX4102-S2 1.5 120 16.4/4.4 2.0″ Side 48 BX4103-C1 1.5 240 8/2.6 1.5″ Center 48 BX4103-S2 1.5 240 8/2.6 2.0″ Side 48 BX4104-C1 2.0 240 10.5/2.6 1.5″ Center 48 BX4104-S2 2.0 240 10.5/2.6 2.0″ Side 48 BX4110-S2 3.0 240 8.5/2.8 2.0″ Side 48 BX4105-S2 3.0 240 10/3.4 2.0″ Side 56 BX4108-S25 3.0 240 10/3.4 2.5″/2.0″ Side 56 BX4106-S2 4.0 240 12/4.4 2.0″ Side 56 BX4109-S25 4.0 240 12/4.4 2.5″/2.0″ Side 56 BX4107-S2 5.0 240 16.4/4.8 2.0″ Side 56 BX4111-S25 5.0 240 16.4/4.8 2.5″/2.0″ Side 56 *Specifications subject to change without notice.

Spa Jet Replacement

The spa shell is the exterior of the tub, and is composed of a surface and an understructure that are bonded together during the manufacturing process. The surface is the source of the color, look and feel of the spa, so it should resist deterioration due to the sun, spa chemicals, or normal wear and tear. Some high-end shells have special coatings to make them more stain resistant or have anti-bacterial ingredients molded into the shell material.

There two primary methods used for manufacturing one piece spa shells:

* vacuum forming of an acrylic base by placing the sheet over a mold and heating with an overhead heater while pulling a vacuum on the mold
* rotational molding: involves placing polyethylene powder in an aluminum mold which is then heated and spun in a large oven so that the plastic melts and takes the form of the mold.

The understructure of the shell provides the strength needed to support hundreds of gallons of water and the weight of the bathers (the cabinet is not normally part of the weight-bearing structure). The substructure is generally made of FRP (commonly called fiberglass), though some companies use ABS or other plastics. Some manufacturers build a self-supporting shell, while others use secondary supports of wood or metal under the seats or in high-stress areas to reduce the amount of FRP required. Some companies use a perimeter frame of wood or metal to support the rim.

The plumbing of the spa consists of several distinct systems:

* A pressure system delivering water to the jets
* A suction system returning water to the pumps.
* A filtration system – the plumbing has to incorporate a filter system to help clean the water. Some models use a separate small 24/7 filter pump while others use programmed settings of the main pumps.
* Induced air – The jets may use a venturi effect to incorporate air into the water stream for a lighter massage effect; this requires another set of hoses.
* Some models use an air blower to force air through a separate set of jets for a different “bubbly” massage effect; this is a separate system from the induced air.
* An ozone system – ozonation is a common adjunct to water maintenance, and if installed will have its own set of hoses and fittings.

The spa cabinet is the skirting around the hot tub, and serves as both an enclosure for the plumbing and a decorative wrap. For many years, spa cabinetry was made of wood, most commonly redwood or cedar, and this is still a popular choice. Wood cabinets require regular maintenance, though, especially in climates where they are exposed to severe weathering. Synthetic materials are increasingly popular because they are seen as requiring relatively little maintenance to keep their appearance.

Energy efficiency

Effective insulation greatly improves the energy efficiency of a spa. There are several different styles of spa insulation: some manufacturers fill the entire cabinet with foam, while others insulate the underside of the shell, the inside of the cabinet, or both. Not surprisingly, many manufacturers advertise the superiority of their approach to insulation, but few independent side-by-side comparisons are available. The spa pump and hot tub heater represent most of the power consumption in a hot tub and vary in use of power depending on their size.
Energy efficiency of the tubs has been studied by the Pacific Gas and Electric Company. The industry has responded to the study.

After this study, both the California Energy Commission and National Resources Canada have taken an interest in the energy efficiency of portable spas (late 2006).

California’s portable electric spa listing include R Values of thermal insulation, and standby watts.

Spa covers have been shown to reduce most if not all of the evaporative losses from the pool when in use. With this component of heat loss being 70% a cover with even a small R-value is able to achieve as much as a 75% reduction in heating costs when used as opposed to leaving the water surface exposed.

Sanitation and chemistry

Maintaining hot tub water sanitation and chemistry is necessary to prevent the spread of disease as well as damage to the tub. In addition to the use of a pump and micrometre-range particulate filter, bromine, chlorine or mineral sanitizers are almost always used as a primary sanitizer, and often supplemented with an ozone generator, UV sterilization, and/or silver and copper ion generator (also known as a “spa ionizer”).

To periodically remove any stubborn microorganisms, or in the event of poor water sanitation, “shocking” the hot tub is recommended. This can be done with either potassium monopersulfate (usually referred to as “non-chlorine shock”), or a relatively large dose of granulated chlorine. The hot tub should not be used for a period of time after starting the shock treatment, typically 15 minutes for potassium monopersulfate and 8 hours for chlorine.

Maintaining the water chemistry involves keeping the pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness within acceptable margins. If the pH is not maintained in the correct range, chlorine will not be effective at eliminating bacteria. Also, severe problems with the water chemistry may cause metal parts of the tub’s plumbing to corrode, damaging or destroying them. The Langlier Saturation Index is important to determine and maintain properly, so that calcium and magnesium deposits do not form in the water heater

Poor hot tub sanitation, whether by improper design or failure of the sanitation system, can result in disease transmission and litigation.It is recommended to have multiple sanitation systems to prevent system failure if one sanitation subsystem fails.

Health Issues

Hot tubs can be dangerous to the health under some circumstances. Studies show that usage may increase miscarriage risk in pregnant women. Also, studies show that usage may hurt male fertility.

Commonly used terms

Hot tub – name originally given to the earliest tubs that were round, made of wood, and located outdoors; now is commonly used interchangeably with the phrases ‘home spa’ and ‘portable spa’.

Home spa – generally made with a plastic shell; surrounding cabinet may be made of wood or synthetic materials; can be used to describe an above ground, in-ground, indoor or outdoor spa.

Portable hot tub/portable home spa – name for any hot tub/home spa that is pre-assembled and sits above ground; actual size and features of a portable hot tub vary widely, from small portable hot tubs that weigh only a few hundred pounds and plug into a household outlet to large tubs that weigh several thousand pounds and require specific installation methods and electrical wiring.

Stereo systems

Some hot tub models have integrated sound systems. These sound systems are typically made of marine grade components that can withstand the humid environments associated with spas.

Spa Jet Replacement

Before you decide to buy a spa, there are a number of things to consider.

1. How many people do I want my spa to be able to accommodate. Keep in mind that even though a spa may have eight seats, it is highly unlikely that you will ever be able to get that many people in an 8 ft. spa. Remember, all of your guests will be bringing their legs, not to mention the water level will probably go over the top around guest number 5. In my personal experience, my spa became very private water for my wife and I quickly.

2. What do you know about the company you are thinking about doing business with? Are they members of the BBB, and what does their report look like. Remember being a member of the BBB doesn’t mean that they have a good reputation! How long have they been in business, and how long have they been handling the spas they are selling. Remember, if they are servicing the spas, its best that they have experience, otherwise they could be practicing on you. Speaking of service, do they have a service department? Are they a local company, or do they just show up to make sales and leave town. If nothing could ever go wrong with your spa, then service won’t be important, otherwise who will take of any warranty issues. CHECK THEM OUT BEFORE ITS TOO LATE.

3. Are they selling a spa that has ETL or UL. approval? If not you might want to find out what standards they are using. Keep in mind that we are talking about water and electricity. You might want to consider a Brand Name, if so check with an outside source for ratings.

4. Get in the spa! In my opinion it is not necessary to have the spa full of water, but at least get in with it dry to see if the seats are comfortable. If the lounger lays too far back, then it is very likely that you will float out, and this will become a seat nobody uses. Is there plenty of leg room. Are there steps to get in and out of the spa, good lighting, and a cover that locks down. Are these things included or are they add-ons.

5. Whats included in the price quoted? Is delivery included? Are steps included? Is a cover included? Is a starter chemical kit included?

6. What is the warranty, does it include parts and labor? Who does the warranty work? What part is pro-rated? Keep in mind, the warranty is only as good as the company that gives it.

For information, Email spasunlimited1@aol.com

Spa Jet Replacement